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Another Way To Tell A Good Bespoke Suit: Armhole Linings

October 14, 2009

There are more than a few ways to tell if a high-end suit is bespoke or not. One of the most telling indicators is the garment’s armholes.

A lot of today’s suits and jackets are made with smaller armholes, which are consistent with trimmer fitting jackets. The trend makes it harder to tell a bespoke suit from one made by machine because today’s machines are very good at adding details like pic stitching to linings to give garments a hand-sewn look.

If you look at the inner-lining of an armhole, you can see if the garment is truly bespoke. Hand-stitching, in the armhole, isn’t in a straight line since a tailor sews in a looping motion as he stitches. On the other hand, machine-run pic stitch will run in a straight line.

I don’t think this post from points out an absolute truth. An armhole can make a lot of difference in defining how a jacket fits and wears, but to see if a garment is high-quality and made by hand, it’s best to take a look at its inside lining.


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